The Sunday Best

187. Joodito, or The Curse of Technical Apparel

Here in the Pacific Northwest many of us have been afflicted with Technical Apparelitus, a peculiar brand of sartorial disease that forces the sufferer to be garbed in highly technical outdoor apparel no matter the chosen activity.

Hence people will grocery shop in parkas that have scaled Everest, and have coffee in Bikram's yoga Lycra-infused halter tops.

I was briefly cheered when I saw the eco-friendly Nau come out with some tailored outdoor pieces, then saddened to hear they had collapsed, then confused to learn they were back again. (Just like being in love.) If you're an XXL they still have sale items on offer.

Joodito is an Etsy store that offers what I consider a better take on the ubiquitous cotton zip-up. Made from salvaged pieces, it's the kind of thing I'd make, and force Charlie to wear, if I only had a bit more skill.

186. How was your weekend?

I spent mine in Sear's catalogue poses.

The "American Gothic."

The "Blues Brothers."

The "Oh my god what's that!"

The "Checking Time."

There was also some very good food.

183. Junya Watanabe | A Cautionary Tale

As the Paris shows wind-up, one stands out in my mind as embodying everything I like about fashion - narrative, fit, whimsy, and colour. Watanabe's influence, according to Tim Blanks, is the road trip, and I can't agree more with this choice. As gas prices in North America finally catch up with the rest of the world, and the entire planet seems to be spiralling into chaos, now may be one of the last times you can get in a car and head out for parts unknown.

Or at the very least, Portland. Wherever you're headed hopefully it will be while you're dressed this well.

__________________________________________________________

A CAUTIONARY TALE

Once, way back in my Sartorial history, I was known to walk around wearing pyjama pants. I was also known to wear my then long hair in two little buns and weave hemp necklaces.

I am not joking.

So it is with some authority that I say this in response to men.style's top trends for Spring - don't do it. Don't even think about doing it.

181. How I've lately dressed

In seersucker pants by Enjoi.

In my rebuttoned American Apparel cardigan.

In my rebuttoned H&M blazer.

176. Spring 09 | Part Three

My latest effort for Everybody is Ugly can be found here. A sample:

First of all, unless you’ve just played a soccer game, or are dressed as a geisha for Hallowe’en, there is no reason for you to be wearing flip flops with socks.

Apparently in the Spring the well-dressed man will be wearing tuxedos, because that's what we'll be getting (all us well-dressed men that is) - tuxedo after tuxedo after tuxedo.

Dsquared²

If we do have to wear them they might as well look like this. I'm definitely liking the piping showing up on all the jackets.

Simple, clean, and classic.

Emporio Armani

Armani - you are definitely one of the last of the big name designers. That said, do we really need almost 100 looks from you, many of them the same version of the same coloured suit?

Lovely detail in the vest.

Welcome to the Spring '98 collection. Hope you enjoy your stay.

Etro

The Etro Fall Collection was my favourite from that season, so I expected great things from Spring. When the patterns are allowed free reign over the look the effect can be overwhelming, but peeking out from more restrained looks the bright flashes add a lovely touch. I can say lovely, right? Good.

Or as Tim Blanks put it,

There’s often been a tension in Kean’s collections between the riotous opulence of the colors and patterns and the somewhat uptight tailoring.

This is why Blanks writes for Vogue, and I write for me.

The aforementioned bright flashes.

And...too much.

Let's play again.

Just right.

And...not so right.

One thing I love about Etro is its use of older models, particularly this gentleman.

175. Spring 09 | Part Two

Calvin Klein

I always want to dislike Calvin Klein, born no doubt from some long-seeded prejudice, but I just can't. His clothes are too...nice to dislike, and usually too plain to kick up much of a fuss. You won't change the world in a Calvin Klein outfit, but you probably won't offend it either.

Case in point.

Perhaps I spoke too soon.

Costume National

I couldn't pick a look I didn't mind - this might be a little outside my comfort zone.

This is...terrible.

This is less bad.

173. Spring 09

Reviews of the seemingly earlier and earlier Spring collections are trickling in, and I thought I'd add my two cents worth (this being, apparently, something of a men's fashion blog). Make sure to also check the two cents of Style Salvage, Male-Mode (on The Fashion Spot), and We Are The Market.

As is my wont, here are my favourite looks from each collection, followed by the look upon which I heap the most scorn. [All pictures courtesy of men.style.com]

Alessandro Dell'Acqua

A collection so plain that it seems not to have been designed, but rather assembled by slapping together various items from retail racks.

Not at all bad, if a little on the boring side.

Having lost his friends, Cardigan Man cut off his pants with a spoon and rushed to find them.

Alexander McQueen

It will take a lot of self-control not to add button flaps to my blazers.

Derek wondered if the other birds didn't like him because he couldn't grow feathers on his wings. The truth - it was his vampire hairdo.

Bottega Veneta

Basically what I wore to work the other day (minus the gorgeous bag and the matching shirt).

No man under 5',8" could wear this without looking like a formally dressed Teletubbie.

165. Start Your Buttons

Since this blog began I've been shouting from the rooftops that people should be re-buttoning their clothes. Now, I have no idea if anyone has heard me; I've certainly not received any notice of mad, re-buttoning crazed crowds storming button stores worldwide.

Be that as it may, you no longer have to just take my word for it. lc from fops and dandies has ventured into the re-buttoning fray.

It seems when lc says things people do them, so I have high hopes for this post. (She doesn't seem to have noticed that I've been banging the re-buttoning drum, but that's cool. I am blogging from Canada.)

To this end I will soon purchase a Janome 415, with its one-touch buttoning hole system, so I can remove the zippers from hoodies and replace them with buttons. Madness you say?

Yes. Beautiful, beautiful madness. (It also has an auto declutch button winder. AUTO DECLUTCH.)

161. Resort | Richard Chai

As an Asian man I take an inordinate amount of pleasure in seeing other Asian men succeed, especially when that success comes in arenas where we are normally silent, such as fashion, and not, say, piano recitals.

By all accounts, Richard Chai is a successful man.

What is not clear is whether Mr. Chai is a friend of women, for if he is he shows it in a roundabout way. A roundabout, heavily shouldered way.

It will avail you not one whit to stare at those magic dots with your eyes crossed - no beautiful dress, or dolphin in space, will appear. It reminds me of one of these, with some sort of mystery ailment:

Of course, you might need a formal squid tube dress for those evening events.

But then, perhaps you should count yourself lucky not to be dressed as a wedding cake with a black fungal growth.

Do my eyes deceive me, or is she wearing a giraffe-patterned body stocking?

157. Resort | Burberry Prosum

Resort Rules of Conduct

1. Never smile. Smiling indicates you are having fun, and there is no fun at Resort.
2. Dress for no specific occasion. Fabrics that look like sofa coverings are highly encouraged.
3. Avoid the sun.
4. Appear very, very bored.

Fair enough - I am not a fashion designer, am not associated with the fashion industry, have no inside knowledge of said people or industry. So chances are I am simply missing the point of what Resort means, and how one is meant to interpret it. But I know what I think when I see the word Resort and, Burberry Prosum, this is not it.

"Won't you join us at the gazebo for the Ayn Rand book club. This week's topic - Atlas Shrugged and its growing reception by the middle class."

"The beaches will be closed until further notice. The Existentialist Croquet Tourney will now be played on the front lawn. Bring your world-crushing weariness."

"Dear Patrons: A gentle reminder that the curtains and upholstery are for all to enjoy. Please refrain from taking them for your personal use."