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November 27, 2008

301. Retail Analysis - Vancouver | Clack Clack Empire

Wander around Vancouver these days and you'll discover a welcome trend. Far away from the H&Ms and Zaras, small, independent retailers are opening up in formerly forgotten areas once thought to be retail death. As befitting their diminutive stature these stores tend to stock the kind of smaller labels you won't find in Barneys or Holt Renfrew.

Clack Clack Empire

One of my recent favourites is Clack Clack Empire, run by the finely dressed Erin M. Edwards (her business card reads "Boss Lady"). Located directly behind the Erin Templeton store, adjacent to the World's Thinnest Building, Clack Clack Empire is the kind of place youll want to visit just to hang about. But don't - instead buy something from her well-curated selection of labels, including Wrath Arcane and Apolis Activism.

Erin was kind enough to let me photograph her lovely store and answer a few questions by email.

Erin of Clack Clack Empire

1. A rose by any other name - why Clack Clack Empire?

Well, it was proving tough to come up with a name that didn't just sound pretentious, or stupid, so I went the silly-hard-to-say-on-the-phone-sticks-in-your-head route. My most prized possessions are type writers, and I was typing up a something about the little business (clack-clack-clack) on one at the same time I was listening to my buddy's album "Clack Clack". I wanted the store to kind of be a focal point, or a place to gather, and spread the word about what was happening in our fair city, so Empire seemed fitting....who knows....stranger things have come out of my head at 2 am, but most of them aren't written on business name applications. Oh well!

Clack Clack Empire

2. How would you characterize Vancouver fashion?

Fashion of the general Vancouverite? In my office? Crocs and Dockers....hahaha. But seriously, functional, comfortable, practical come to mind. It makes sense given the horrendous weather for 78% of the year. Though "fashion" in Vancouver is hard to peg here, there's a lot of folks doing a lot of different things, but sustainability, green, organic, 'west coast' and asymmetrical come to mind when I think of a lot of it...

Clack Clack Empire

3. What's it like opening a store in this "current economic environment"?

Well when I opened the store in March 2008 I was already too far along to stop! And the rumblings of economic disaster were at the back of my mind, things seemed ok still...though I remember thinking what would become of all the Commercial Backed Paper fiascos around September of '07. But the CAD dollar was being traded at a decent price which made ordering from the States nice, people were flush, and I really wanted to give it a try. I didn't honestly think that the economic climate would change SO rapidly once it started sliding! But that's what you get offering large loans and mortgages to people who don't REALLLLLLLY qualify,  and then trade those bundles of bad debts about to get worse...then payments come due, interest rates change and so-on....one person/trading firm freaks then the whole trade floor freaks, and runs for the hills! Don't get me started....the public trading world of the resource market that I was employed in until very recently, is severely depressed...much like me after losing my primary income! And half the value of my portfolio....what is the cardinal rule? Diversify? BAH! Soooooo, running the store now will really require redirecting things as I don't see a decent turn-around on the markets for some time. So, knowing that and with our dollar slumped against the USD means that buying stock from the States is going to be significantly more expensive. Finding more local or Canadian folks, and starting up a Clack Clack house line are directions that I'm very seriously pursuing at the moment. I'll just have to take it day by day! But luckily my overhead costs amount to what you'd find under your seat cushion.


Clack Clack Empire

4. Tell us about your lines.

I have pretty neat stuff, if I do say so myself! They were picked mostly because...
a) they are awesome and/or rad;
b) they follow a similar ethic to the store, (environmental-socially responsible, artist inspired, independent, 'stick to their guns' approach to design despite a lot of trend/hype);
c) great fit, cut, and quality for a decent price preferably made domestically;
d) still relatively independant, as in I can still call up the designer to ask specific questions.
 
So for the boys we carry, Apolis Activisim...and I tell ya...the quality and finishing on these garments is nearly unsurpassed, even in stuff that's twice the price. I like the fact that this line of military/worker/classics inspired is still run by the three brothers that started it who also work closely with a number of aid groups for children in Africa! The quality of the textiles (merinos, wax canvas, great shirting) is fantastic, and these garments are well finished, well designed, and will become timeless classics in the closet of a few lucky men! Oh, and much of their stuff is made in the states, though they assure me that the factory for their knits in China is very fair. And honestly, I have no doubt of it. These guys are super on-top of that sort of thing.
 
Wrath Arcane takes classics and adds some neat asymetric details. They are awesome in that their mantra (posted on their website) is 'fuck big labels'. I think it's cute, they're keeping it real in Ohio...domestically produced...good ol' USA.
 
Good Society Denim
 
These guys/gals have a nice range of unembelished simple denim that feels like 18oz (probably 14 but this stuff is HEARTY), organic, selvaged denim for a steal of a deal at $117. The cotton is fairly traded and fairly manufactured, which is great as denim tends to be one of the most taxing both on the environment and the people who make it, so I appreciate this company's (run and owned by young folks like me) effort and commitment.
 
And the ladies....
 
Evan and Dean
 
What can I say, these guys make some pretty sweet super haute ladies dresses that make you look and feel like a million bucks (USD!). The designers are SUPER nice and I can relate to them as they still both have other full time occupations, but have some how managed to make a line for themselves that has received international acclaim!
 
Paperbird
 
My buddy Merida Anderson makes this line. She's totally amazing and really humble considering how great her line is! The pieces are simple, but the choice of materials, haute couture finishing and her subtle detailing that make them one of a kind and rather gorgeous. She's also a bit of fixie fanatic like me, so much of her clothing, despite it's femininity, is able to be worn whilst bombing a hill, or skidding through traffic on a raining day because you think you're too cool to put a front brake on your bike.
 
House of Cassette
 
These guys have for the past few seasons totally amazed me with the quality and their 'anti mainstream' direction. The colours rarely stray from black and grey, but it doesn't matter, because these pieces are dramatic and amazing without the use of loud colours. Their collection is coherent, but unpredictable. It varies from highly structured dresses and wool moto vests with hard lines to uber scandalous cape dresses....love it!!
 
Clark's
Can't go wrong...
 
Ken Diamond
 
Ken has been making leather good for some time, and has earned a reputation for making some pretty fantastic man bags (Ed. note - no!!!), belts, and bike seats! Recently, Ken and his significant other/business partner Jolene have branched out to basic footwear....and where better to start than with a Canadian icon?! Moccasins....handmade, 6 minutes from the shop. And the way these things are manufactured and presented make them a collectible piece!!
 
Simeon Farrar

AMAZING sweaters from this artist cum designer....he's also super nice and very talented.

5. What other labels interest you?

Welllllll, I don't know, there's some like Patrik Ervell, Margaret Howell, Maiden Noir, Henrik Vibskov, and Fiorentini+Baker for shoes...that would be amazing to have...maybe. But ya know....I'm interested to see what Vancouver has to offer in the next few years. I like the smaller companies, I've had the chance to chat to all the designers and I think that's important if my shop is representing their brand and them in a way.

Clack Clack Empire
 
 
6. Plans for future world domination?

Heh! Well, I think I'll just take it day by day given the whole economic sitch'. If I had access to 700 billion bucks, there would be a Clack Clack on every street corner....but small fashion boutiques don't get bail outs, so I'll have to find another way to grow the Empire! So watch out, I think with the help of my super talented pals that consist of designers, artists, musicians, and critics, the Clack Clack house line will be amazing!!

Clack Clack Empire
Clack Clack Empire
524 Shanghai Alley

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